For today’s #indie30, the prompt is: Have You Ever Been to South America? What Stands Out? Yes, to different countries, but let me tell you about Colombia:
A tribute to my grandfather, and to my heritage :
In the walled city
Fort around Cartagena’s Old City
With a large family
My abuelo, abuela, mom, aunt and uncles – my mom is oldest of six – she has the headband on
Lived a fisherman named Eddie
Abuelo spearfished – one of his catches
Who longed for the sea
On the way to Islas del Rosario
A fish they called him
And from Barú to La Popa
Known was he
He’d pick up his camera and roll through the colorful streets of his city
The colorful streets of Cartagena
To give to the eyes of the people the treat of his photography
Abuelo shot film with antique cameras he repaired himself. Photo credit: photography.tutsplus.com
And when he painted, they’d all say, “Masterpiece!”
Oops, I did this backwards. On the right is the start of the painting and on the left is the more finished product.
Then one day the ticking of the clocks he collected decided to cease
Puerta del Reloj – the main entrance into the Old City
And under an incredible sun the ocean whispered, “It’s time. Return to me…”
This is the sunset on the night my abuelo died in the ocean (and the spot he passed away) – It was found on Facebook right after he died and I do not take credit for the photo, it comes from one of the tourist companies there
Where abuelo returned to the sea – my aunt’s photo – his favorite place in the world: La Tenaza in Crespo
There are many places in South America I have yet to see – Machu Picchu, Easter Island, unexplored mountains of Patagonia…I thoroughly look forward to exploring those regions, but when I think “South America” one word comes to mind: familia. And for me that is synonymous with Colombia.
What can I even begin to write about Colombia and my beautiful Cartagena de Indias? My mother’s ancestors left Morocco, Africa for Las Islas de Canarias, Spain then later immigrated to Cartagena de Indias, Colombia. Not to be confused with the many towns of Columbia we have in the United States. I always joke the only “u” in Colombia should be you. And that is true. It’s part of our family. My heritage is just that meaningful.
For so long people have feared going to Colombia because of the kidnappings and the drug cartels. For awhile I avoided Colombia because *I* feared it, too. Then I realized I was being silly and the love affair continued…
I grew up much closer to my Colombian heritage than my European roots. There is no reason other than my father didn’t have as close a relationship with his parents. My paternal ancestry is extremely interesting, but I’ll save that for another day (plus it has nada to do with South America). Colombia and Cartagena have been part of me since before I was born. I mean, if it weren’t for that trip to Cartagena in August of ’75 mom and dad took, I wouldn’t be here today!
I sifted through probably a thousand photos trying to condense a way to convey the beauty that is the people, the food, the colors and the city of beautiful Cartagena. I hope you enjoy looking at these as much as I did taking them:
At night hop on La Chiva and get your groove on as you are taken on a ride through the city. Then get off in Old Town and walk to Plaza Santo Domingo. Grab a seat or stroll around a bit as you listen to some music and watch the dancers move in their native garb:
My mom and cousin on La Chiva. You will be given Pepsi and rum along with an empanada or pastelito – buy some maracas from one of the vendors – it makes it more fun!
Definitely grab handmade bracelets and don’t be taken, the locals WILL negotiate – just walk away and find someone else if they won’t
Also in Plaza Santo Domingo is a sculpture by a famous Colombian artist, Botero called La Gordita:
La Gordita by Boltero (the edges were from my Shutterfly editing kick days)
She faces my favorite church in all of the city, Iglesia Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo was under repair this time, but I LOVE how it looks in this state
Although there are PLENTY of churches from which to choose YOUR favorite:
Outside of Iglesia San Pedro Claver
Iglesia San Pedro Claver
The remains of San Pedro Claver are at the altar of the church
Make sure you make your way through all of the squares on your way out of the Old City…
Plaza San Pedro Claver
And then stop for some candy at Portal de los Dulces. I must recommend the ariquipe.
Portal de Los Dulces
That will lead you to the famous Monumento a los Pegasos
And these kinds of views of where the Cartagena film festival takes place:
The cine aka cinema:
Keep walking, turn toward Old City and feast your eyes on your views
What a view – Iglesia Santo Domingo and the Cathedral
The Cartagena Convention Center
Then make your way through the colorful buildings toward Manga
DO NOT miss Castillo de San Felipe! It is said to be very haunted. My cousin and I had a weird instance while in the tunnels here. Full battery on the camcorder, all of a sudden we hear a strange noise like a crash and the camcorder light goes out, then the entire camcorder died. We ran out of the tunnels really fast!
A view from Castillo de San Felipe on an overcast day – it shows you the poverty and the wealth in Cartagena
After you’ve had your adventure at the Castillo, you can also stop in Manga to check your email…
This is where I check my email in Manga
Stop a fruit cart vendor if you get hungry – they have some good stuff!
Taken from the window of a family friend’s home in Manga
At some point before you leave Cartagena, definitely negotiate a price for a ride up to Convento La Popa (the convent on top of La Popa)
La Popa behind me (the building on top of the hill is the convent)
And visit Candelaria, the patron saint of Cartagena…
AND see all of her dresses:
Before you go, take a photo of the beautiful view:
You should also definitely visit Islas del Rosario. Make sure you are going with a reputable vendor!
One of the operations that will take you out (we went with another group, but these guys were legit, too)
Islas del Rosario
And get someone to give you real coconut
If you find yourself in Boca Grande, take a stroll… find a place called Pan de Bono (I don’t have a picture of it, darnit) – get some pan de bono, which is an amazing bread, and a fresh juice con hielo (with ice). My favorite is jugo de mandarina (mandarin)
If you see “Calle 8” (I took this because of the famous Calle Ocho in Miami) you’re heading in the right direction
And check your email:
The ice-cream shop/internet cafe’ where I check my email in Boca Grande
End one of your nights back in old Town at Enoteca. It’s one of my favorites in Cartagena for Italian (there are a lot of Italians in Cartagena).
While on your journey find a palenquera – Respectfully ask to photograph her and offer a small amount of money to do so. (I couldn’t find my palenquera photos). This is a sculpture between the Old City and Boca Grande:
Before you leave, find your favorite place to take in the view
From La Popa
And watch the sunset
Toasting to ¡Salud!
My mom, abuela, abuelo and me at one of favorites – La Tinaja.
Que descanse en pas, abuelo. Lo extraño mucho.
Abuelo = grandfather
Abuela = grandmother
Familia = family
Iglesia = church
Salud = health (when you toast, it loosely translates to toasting to good health)
Gordita = an affectionate way of saying fat, I know, I know. But in Spanish I promise it is mostly seen as a term of endearment